Colorado's Hidden Gravel Goldmine: 72 Hours Exploring Gunnison County

 

Words and photos by Daniel Palma

Daniel Palma takes us along for a 3-day gravel adventure through Gunnison County, hosted by Crested Butte-Gunnison tourism in June 2025. Led by world-renowned polar adventurer Eric Larsen, a select group of editors rode through the remote high valleys, alpine forests, and volcanic terrain of the greater Gunnison Valley to experience some of Colorado's most spectacular forest and county roads. Check out his captivating recap and photos from the riding below…

 
 
 
 

In Gunnison County, its diverse landscape feels timeworn, disturbed only by the hum of gravel under tires, the wind stirring Aspen leaves, or the laughter of riders cresting by. Crested Butte may be celebrated as one of the birthplaces of mountain biking, but just south lies Gunnison County, a hidden gem for gravel cyclists. Here, more than 1,100 miles of National Forest Service roads weave through alpine passes, ghost towns, volcanic pinnacles, and sage valleys. Riding through this landscape feels less like ticking off miles and more like traveling through chapters of the American West, each turn revealing new terrain, each climb rewarding not just the legs but the spirit.

I arrived in early June, greeted by a passing thunderstorm that reminded me that this was going to be an epic adventure. Our base for the first two nights, Island Acres Motel, sits on the path of the Gunnison River, a quiet hamlet framed by soaring cliffs. That first evening, we gathered for dinner and introductions. This was a trip where various cycling industry editors were invited by Crested Butte-Gunnison tourism to ride gravel bikes and experience Gunnison Country in its raw form. Gravel bikes from Otso Cycles were lined up on the grass, which were hand selected for each rider's style of riding. A full itinerary promised three days of gravel exploration to some of the most beautiful landscapes I have ridden any bike through.

 
 

Island Acres Resort Motel offers log cabin-style lodging located a block from the Gunnison River and 1.9 miles from downtown Gunnison, Colorado.

 
 

Island Acres Motel sits quietly on the path of the Gunnison River, framed by soaring cliffs and serving as base camp for three days of gravel exploration.

Otso Cycles stainless steel gravel bike posted up in the grass, hand-selected and ready to tackle the diverse terrain of Gunnison Country.

 
 

Day 1: Spring Creek to Taylor Canyon Gravel 

The riding began the following morning with a shuttle to the intersection where Taylor River meets Spring Creek. Guiding our journey was Eric Larsen, a world-renowned polar adventurer and expedition leader who has spent much of his life traversing the most remote and unforgiving places on Earth. Having skied to both the North and South Poles and even summited Mt. Everest within a single year, Eric carries an unmatched sense of perspective on endurance and exploration. His calm leadership and deep respect for nature brought a rare depth to our mission.

On this route, riders could achieve 20-46 miles of riding. With little to no cell signal, we turned our Rocky Talkies on, rode a small patch of pavement that soon turned into gravel. Riders wasted no time to tackle the steady climb into alpine air. I am all about the journey rather than the destination, so I paced myself to be able to soak in all of the scenery. The rushing creek was music to my ears, on what I would call one of the most relaxing climbs I have done. I was then hit with a sudden increase of incline that reminded me what I was here to do: gravel grind and earn my descent. A few stops were necessary to refuel and hydrate. I had forgotten that I was at an average elevation of about nine thousand feet. My sea-level California lungs were forced to adapt quickly the more I climbed. One by one, we gathered for a quick roll call near Spring Creek Reservoir ending our ride along Spring Creek. Another trail could be seen cutting through a dense pine forest in the near distance. Our roll call was over and it was time to head in that direction.

Now surrounded by pine trees, it was easy to follow the winding dirt road. Static noise could be heard from my two-way radio. I knew others were near but I had to keep pushing up the climb. A small group of riders were taking a lunch break overlooking snow topped mountains. Rain clouds could be seen rolling in as we were about to descend. We wasted no time and rolled out. My Otso Warakin steel hardtail gravel adventure bike felt right at home in the high speed twisty hardpack dirt. The 2.35 in wide Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires came in clutch. The bike felt poised even in rutted, loose sections of the trail. Eric was waiting for us at the bottom of the hill, ready to snap a finish-line style photo. He told me I had the fastest time descending that portion of the mountain. Not my intention, but I excitedly accepted my win. I thought I had outpaced the rain storm, but it was closer than ever. We were given the choice to keep on riding, or hop back onto one of the vehicles. I chose the latter. This gave me the opportunity to take more photos of the last stretch of scenery.

Once the rain clouds were right above us, we decided to pick up more of the riders that were up a head. A quick pit stop overlooking the Taylor Park Reservoir Dam gave us a look at the vastness of terrain we had covered. We promptly were driven back to the base camp of the Island Acres Motel. By late afternoon, my legs were heavy but anticipation for post-ride recovery was high. On arrival, we were surprised by the team with a mobile sauna and cold plunge. Cycling trips rarely include such indulgent recovery, but in Gunnison, they know what's up. Dinner back at Island Acres' grassy backyard was another highlight. Eric, showed his campsite cooking skills, through thoughtful preparation, we were served around tables where strangers quickly became friends as the rain storm passed by. The firepit was lit up to help keep warm and keep the post ride celebration going. It was a fitting close to our first day of riding.

 
 

World-renowned polar adventurer Eric Larsen, who has skied to both poles and summited Everest in a single year, brought his calm leadership and deep respect for nature to guide our gravel journey.

 
 

Surrounded by dense pine forest, riders pushed through winding dirt roads as static crackled on Rocky Talkies and rain clouds began rolling in over snow-topped peaks.

A quick stop at Taylor Park Reservoir Dam revealed the vastness of terrain covered, a moment to appreciate the landscape before the storm caught up.

 
 

The steady climb along Spring Creek offered a soundtrack of rushing water and alpine air, one of the most relaxing grinds until the incline reminded riders they were earning their descent at nine thousand feet.

 
 

A mobile sauna and cold plunge awaited back at camp, cycling trips rarely include such indulgent recovery, but in Gunnison, they know what's up.

The Otso Warakin steel hardtail with 2.35-inch Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires felt right at home on high-speed twisty hardpack, staying poised even through rutted, loose sections.

 
 

Day 2: Cathedral to Blue Mesa

Our second day began with a shuttle south toward Cathedral, a small but striking area in the high valley. The deeper we drove, the more acres of private ranches we would see. We were greeted with a smile and a nod as we drove through. Once we got to our starting point, we stretched our legs, took group photos, and prepared to embark on day two’s route. We had a countdown start and rolled out. All I could hear for the first mile were tires grinding through the rolling valley gravel. Slowly, the group started to disperse into what seemed like groups of two. The gravel road was long but not intimidating, especially with such distinct farmland views. It was the perfect start to a 35-mile ride. Rolling sage hills, narrow canyon passages, and alpine meadows punctuated by wildflowers and distant peaks. Every turn begged to be photographed, every vista demanded pause.

I took the opportunity to speak with Otso/Wolftooth Co-founder Dan Dittmer, as we rode. We chatted about bike manufacturing, racing, and the current bike industry predicaments. Dan is full of industry knowledge and his love for the sport is very obvious. He was so stoked to be riding bikes with the rest of us. I learned from him that he has great involvement helping to develop and test Otso and Wolfooth products before they are released to the public. This is what I think any CEO of a biking company should do!

Our conversation was interrupted by a fork in the gravel road. It was time to cut through a long and steep paved road to get to our lunch spot. Knowing there was a lot more mileage after lunch, I decided to hitch a ride on one of the assist vehicles. A quick five minute drive turned out to be about twenty minutes for those riding up the steep paved road. At the top, next to a lone tree, two other support vehicles were waiting with food and water. The paved road continued onto Lake City overlooking a cluster of snow topped mountains and ridges. A sign next to where pavement meets gravel showed the name of the new dirt road we would soon embark on. Sapinero Mesa Road, would take us to the U.S. Highway 50 and Blue Mesa Reservoir, the end of our destination.  

One by one, members of the group rolled in from their climb. We munched and laughed, until we saw rain clouds rolling through. This was a sign to get back to the dirt and see if we could maybe outride the rain. But as soon as our tires hit dirt, the nimbus clouds poured down on us. This moment only kept the spirits up of the group as we pushed through this forested section of the dirt road. Unbelievably, as soon as we entered this wide open valley, the rain suddenly stopped. It was as if we were suddenly teleported into a new landscape.

The road was easy to follow but had several rutted sections that made this scenic dry landscape laborious. A couple of us jumped onto one of the assist vehicles for a quick breather. We stopped at the end of the hill where everyone gathered to see a majestic piece of scenery. There, we stood in awe, overlooking Dillon Pinnacles, volcanic spires sculpted by millennia of wind and erosion. The dirt road headed straight to them in a long steep descent. We all spent a good amount of time getting photos of each other as the sun directly pointed toward the landscape. Photos don’t do it justice, especially after such an epic amount of riding.

We hopped back on our bikes and started our descent. A few ruts on the dirt made an appearance, but would not distract us from the gorgeous landscape we were descending towards. This has got to be one of my top scenic descents of all time. As we neared the end of the dirt road, Highway 50 could be seen snaking through where Gunnison River meets Blue Mesa Reservoir, Colorado's largest body of water. From the road, the reservoir stretched in glittering turquoise, framed by rolling cliffs and shadowy coves. Even after long hours in the saddle, Gunnison’s landscapes reenergized the soul. Such a spectacular place to end our ride. We loaded up our bikes and drove back to the motel for our final night there. Our third day of riding would embark the group on a 37-mile ride through high altitude challenging climbs and fast descents.

 
 

The deeper we drove toward Cathedral, the more acres of private ranches appeared, each greeted with a smile and a nod as we passed through this high valley.

 
 

From above, gravel bikes and support vehicles dot the high valley floor, riders stretching and preparing to embark while the vast expanse of Gunnison County's ranches and sage hills stretches endlessly beyond.

A quick snack stop reveals the reward of climbing in Gunnison County, wide open views stretching for miles under building clouds, the kind of scenery that makes every pedal stroke worth it.

 
 

Brent Adams of Cache Seven had never ridden gravel before this trip. Based on this smile on Lake City Cutoff Road, overlooking Dillon Pinnacles, he's hooked!

 
 

A sign next to where pavement meets gravel, showed the name of the new dirt road we would soon embark on. Sapinero Mesa Road, would take us to the U.S. Highway 50 and Blue Mesa Reservoir, the end of our destination.  

From alpine climbs at nine thousand feet to fast, technical descents through pine forests, the Warakin's steel frame absorbed the punishment while keeping the ride smooth and responsive.

 
 

Day 3: Sargents to Pitkin

The final ride took us east, starting just north of Sargents. Right off of Highway 50, we parked our vehicles on this paved road next to Tomichi Creek, which cut right through this long narrow valley. You could hear the rushing water that meandered gently throughout. We huddled and promptly rolled out. We passed one cow at a time, and waved hello (well, I did anyway). Around the turn, the iconic yellow sign with an illustration depicting 'pavement meets gravel' popped up.

A light dust cloud could be seen up ahead of some of the riders. Transitioning onto the dirt road, a small section of aspen trees welcomed me into this new environment. We soon had to make a sudden left turn onto another dirt road that cut right through Tomichi Creek. This road would soon lead us up a steep and windy climb up to Quakey Mountain Trailhead. Here Aspen Trees were abundant and each passing breeze would make the leaves rustle in harmony. Here, we rested for a bit and passed around a bag of M&M’s for a quick boost of sugar.

Our descent would soon begin, so I decided to air down my tires a bit. Someone signaled the descent and I dropped in, hammering the pedals in the highest gear, my 32-tooth Wolf Tooth chainring spinning fast. The rush felt invigorating with rolling mountains in the background as I biked through a passing dried up gulch. We could not have asked for better weather during this drop in elevation. At the end of the descent, we rolled past Waunita Hot Springs Ranch, a private facility with pools fed by natural hot springs nearby. Definitely a place I would want to check out next time I visit. We kept riding through rolling hills until we reached Highway 50 once again. A small portion of the highway had to be biked to get to another trailhead, while it was not busy, it was quite the experience.

I waited at the trailhead for other riders, and to make sure I was headed in the right direction. Dan soon caught up and we decided to slowly continue to pedal. After rolling a couple of miles on what seemed to be a sandy type of sediment, we reached Eric’s assist vehicle. There, we hydrated with some Tailwind electrolytes, took a few photos, and loaded up our bikes onto the truck. The elevation was slowly creeping up and my body could feel it. Gradually biking up to higher elevation didn’t seem to bother me too much, but quickly driving from seven thousand to nearly ten thousand feet of elevation seemed to do the trick to make me feel a bit sick.

Our final destination was the Pitkin Hotel, in the small and mighty old mining town of Pitkin, Colorado. We unloaded our bags from the vehicles and headed inside the newly restored hotel, which has a uniquely decorated style of the early 1900’s with modern services and amenities. The staff greeted us and made us feel right at home. We gathered at the bar and cheered on what would be the last day of riding. We headed to our rooms where we could take a welcomed hot shower and rest for a bit.

A group text was sent out to everyone to meet downstairs for dinner. All the editors were present along with those who made it all happen. Eric Larsen (Adventurer Guide), Maria Hennesy (Smak Strategies), Dan Dittmer (Otso/Wolftooth), Katy Mooney (Gunnison Crested Butte Tourism), and Michael (Assistant Guide/Trail Builder). The meal was fantastic, capped by Eric's speech recounting our adventures and the feat we'd just accomplished as a group.

 
 

The final ride began just north of Sargents off Highway 50, where Tomichi Creek meandered through a long narrow valley and the sound of rushing water set the tone for the day ahead.

 
 

At Quakey Mountain Trailhead, abundant aspen trees rustled in harmony with each passing breeze as riders rested and passed around a bag of M&M's for a quick sugar boost.

Weathered barns dot the roadside in Gunnison County, silent reminders of ranching heritage and the generations who carved out life in this high valley landscape.

 
 
 
 

From alpine passes and ghost towns to volcanic pinnacles and sage valleys, Gunnison County proved to be a hidden gem where gravel cyclists find raw adventure in its purest form.

 
 

Betsy Welch filled with gravel-stoke after 3 amazing days of riding in Colorado.

The newly restored Pitkin Hotel in the small and mighty mining town of Pitkin welcomed riders with uniquely decorated early 1900s style mixed with modern services and amenities.

 
 

Final Thoughts

It was such a great experience reflecting back on the three days of exploring unlike no other that I have experienced. This has been by far one of the best gravel riding experiences I have had to date as a photographer. It was truly everything I could have asked for. Although these landscapes should be experienced in person, I hope that my photography conveys the beauty that is Gunnison County.

Shoutout to Otso Cycles for the rad Warakin Stainless Steel gravel bike that kept me rolling throughout Gunnison County. This bike truly enhanced my riding experience as one of the most comfortable gravel bikes I've ridden. They somehow set it up exactly how I would for my mixed gravel style of riding. It rips on the descents! Big thanks also to Giro, Gore Wear, Pearl Izumi, Tailwind, Topeak, Xpedo, Uvex, Utu, Rocky Talkie, Rec Pak, and Camelback for gear that kept us comfortable, safe, and fueled throughout the trip.

My mind was ready for more days of exploring, but my body had reached its limit. Three full days of riding allowed me to really understand that Gunnison County will push your limits, but leave you coming back for more. If you have been looking into your next gravel destination, I highly suggest Gunnison. The warmer months of the year will be the best time to come as it can get pretty snowy during the winter. If you need a local resource, you can hit up Double Shot Cyclery and they will point you in the right direction. And if you’re on instagram, follow the Gunnison Gravel Club for local group rides.

The gravel trails we rode through were all curated by the trip organizers. No official guided tours are yet available for those interested in group led rides. I was informed that it is okay to reach out to our group guide leader Eric Larsen, as he would be more than happy to chat and point you in the right direction when coming to Gunnison.

If you are looking for another reason to visit, a local race may entice you. The Gunni Grinder is a challenging 120-mile race that starts and finishes in downtown Gunnison giving riders a challenging and scenic gravel experience. The Original Growler Endurance Race that is coming up in May 2026 is also worth checking out. To stay up to date on latest trail work/events in Gunnison, check out Gunnison Trails.

Something I learned during the trip, is that sea level folks may get altitude related illness while out in the 7-10 thousand feet of elevation that Gunnison County puts you through. The higher you go in elevation, if not acclimated, can make you short of breath, cause exhaustion, and even make you feel sick due to the lower percentage of oxygen. I most definitely felt some of the symptoms when nearing 10 thousand feet of elevation. I felt very exhausted, dizzy, short of breath, and pounding headaches at this altitude. I was later informed that you can rent a portable oxygen concentrator to help with some of these symptoms. So if you are a sea level rider and feel like you may need a little boost of oxygen, check out Blue Bird for your portable oxygen needs. This would have come in handy! I was also recommended this Acli-mate sports drink to help hydrate and fuel the body with vitamins and electrolytes to help reduce altitude sickness symptoms. I should have definitely watched a few videos about altitude sickness before the trip but somehow survived even after so much riding!

Colorado gravel biking has grown in popularity in recent years. The 1,169 miles of bikeable National Forest service roads are ready to be explored. Gunnison can sound a bit intimidating, but it is worth noting that routes can be of any length to suit beginners, intermediate, and advanced gravel bikers.

I will forever remember this gravel adventure trip and hope to be back sometime soon to experience new dirt paths. Adios!

Visit GunnisonCrestedButte.com

 

🖊📷 Daniel Palma | follow